Zuhair Murad, much like Elie Saab, aims his couture at the beautiful but safe: solid colors, lots of lace, lots of appliques. There are thankfully some points at which he diverges.
Pants, for instance. Saab does not do pants (very often.) Murad, on the other hand, has no fear of approaching the white lace jumpsuit with only a gold leaf belt to visually break it up.
Oscar Carvallo, the Enfant Terrible of Caracas, always brings a Latin American flare to his work. It’s a loud flair, a bright flare, a happy flare.
And oh boy, is it a whole lot of look. Leaving the helmet head aside, these yellow-to-violet stripes are such that one might almost expect Wayne and Garth to start a flashback sequence.
It’s really hard to photograph 3D clothing like the kind that came down the runway at Stéphane Rolland. if you’re looking for the futuristic, the fantastical and the bordering on fugly, you’ve come to the right show.
If I saw this walking towards me on the street, I would worry for her exposed breast bone getting hit with a random arrow. As it walked down the runway, it was a magnificent sail behind her.
Viktor&Rolf‘s show was a case of massive cross promotion. Their new perfume is a ballerina pink bottle with a bow, so their couture collection was ballet. But instead of models, they cast members of the Dutch National Ballet to dance the runway and promote both their company, and display the clothing en pointe.
Ballerinas may have been the over all theme, but there was a big play made with the latex illusion fabric as well.
Butterflies? How gauche. How flashy. Yiqing Yin would never hop on such a garish trend. She’ll stick to moths, thank you very much.
Yin would also never be so literal and obvious. Yes, the dusty tones of the moth were her inspiration, but that doesn’t mean she dressed her girls like them.
Butterflies are free to be the in trend of Spring 2014′s couture. They’d been fluttering about the edges of collections, but it wasn’t until they landed with a vengeance as the leitmotif of Jean Paul Gaultier‘s show that we could be certain they’d arrived.
And arrive they did, from suggestions in the rouching of a blouse to the see thru mask like headdress.
There is so much more to Maison Martin Margiela‘s couture line than meets the eye. Every season, the end result that walks down the runway may be jarring, odd or unfinished looking. But it’s not about the end product. It’s about the journey the fabrics took to get there.
I know what you’re thinking: Hello, clothes are to be worn. Who would wear this tee shirt with random fabric swatches haphazardly attached? Well you might if you knew that those swatches are scraps of Mariano Fortuny fabric that the line went to great lengths to get from a private collection.
If it’s Elie Saab, then it’s time for solid colors in lace and chiffon. The man knows his audience, and he rarely disappoints.
Opening with a pale pink and three-dimensional floral appliques.
The idea at Valentino this season was Operas. Each dress was supposed to represent a different libretto. Unfortunately, the theory didn’t hold up so well in practice.
I don’t think it was an accident this dress was released two days before the Grammys, so that the always-literal Katy Perry could think herself clever and fashion forward by snatching it up.
Once again it was a One Night Only! celebration from Giorgio Armani, with his Armani Privé couture line as the highlight of the evening.
“She moves with the Armani spirit in her head!” declared the designer. More like *on* her head, with the gypsy style headscarves as a running motif.