Tag Archives: couture

Paris Spring 2015 Couture: Zuhair Murad

I always like to close my Couture week coverage with Zuhair Murad. Call it an alphabetical thing. In this case, also call it a hard-to-get-to thing. Murad’s show was blocked in all directions by the French Railroad Worker protest, which meant to get there, the fashionista crowd had to park, sometimes blocks away, and walk over.

But the reason they did it–and the reason we save him for last–is because he’s worth it. This is the sort of high-end diamond and sequins and bead encrusted work that’s red carpet ready and divine to boot. Cloaks and trains mingled with sparkle encrusted leotards and body suits, to cover everyone from the Oscars to the MTV Awards.

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There were a few over embellished misses, especially when the chiffon attempted to ruffle up the shoulders and the neckline. But in general, it was a show stopper collection and one worthy of the end of Couture week.

The full collection is below.

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Paris Spring 2015 Couture: Ulyana Sergeenko

Well, this was a little unfortunate. Ulyana Sergeenko, who only a couple of years ago was wowing on Couture runways, ended up presenting her collection in a hotel, via snapshot, rather than catwalk. Who says that the economic impact after the Ukrainian war isn’t affecting Russian businesses?

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The 36 piece collection was still beautiful to look at, even if the crowd silently judged her behind their eyes as she tried to insist that this “one on one” style presentation was more to her aesthetic anyway. Not only was the presentation slimmed down, but so were the designs. Though that was probably by necessity, the result was often some of the strongest looks Sergeenko has put out yet. Finally, proof that somewhere, for someone, austerity worked.

The full collection below.

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Paris Spring 2015 Couture: On Aura Tout Vu

On Aura Tout Vu, which translates roughly to “We’ve Seen Everything” is one of those fashion houses that neither takes itself too seriously, nor is afraid to put on a show. Designers Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov are both Bulgarian born textile artists, while André Sá Pessoa is a crystal and jewelry design, which is why many of their shows are as dependent on the accessories as the outfits.

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The show was one part fashion show, one part dance routine, one part oddity. Beyond the opening male model, the next five or so looks included models sporting crystal beards, before morphing into crystal beaded evening wear with a print that seemed to be the muscles of the human body. Of course, with all modern art, there’s always a message, this one was to “Stop The Violence, and Dance.”

Full collection below. To see the dance performance, click here.

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Paris Spring 2015 Couture: Legends

Legends, or as they’re also known Legends Monaco, is a young brand created by Sylvia Sermenghi and Bilal Barrage back in 2012. Their connections got them an invitation to Paris and couture week, and even though they are a very young brand, they made sure not to disappoint.

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The eighteen piece collection, which ended with the traditional wedding gown, was made of lots of lace and lots of florals in pinks and blues, with ultra feminine lines. One surprise–a pair of bathing suits, which is fairly unusual for designers to present at couture. One hopes that this departure from the norm isn’t enough for the Council to rethink bringing them back next season.

The full collection is below.

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Paris Spring 2015 Couture: Serkan Cura

Serkan Cura went from feathers to fur. That was the takeaway from the 15 look collection from the young designer. He not only eschewed his favorite medium for a more mammalian look, but he changed up the venue too. No more burlesque stage. Instead these looks were relegated to a warehouse, another suggestion that the fantastical looks we’ve seen from him before are coming down to Earth.

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There were a few feathers, towards the end, as Cura could not let go of them all together. But they were the ostrich variety, with fit the more fur style theme very well. The full collection is below.

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Paris Spring 2015 Couture: Georges Chakra

Georges Chakra has a thing for femininity and the 1950s. Sometimes this can cause his collections to come off a little dated–in the group of Lebanese designers, his is one that trails behind Zuhair Murad or Elie Saab for just this reason.

In the last couple of seasons, he’s been pushing to break out of that with uneven success. This collection was case in point. Forty five outfits, all off which were pastel dressy to the point of impracticality and always dosed with sequins, it would appeal to someone like Jackie Kennedy. But She’s long gone, and how many women are there out there ready to take her spot, other than Amal Clooney?

Georges Chakra, Haute Couture summer 2015

There was also the sense of over fussy. The first six outfits, walked out under coats and were then revealed. Like so:

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Paris Spring 2015 Couture: Abed Mahfouz

This was Abed Mahfouz’s first invite to the Haute couture stage after spending the last few years on the Alta Roma circuit that tags itself on to the tail end of couture week. Much like Tony Ward, another Alta Roma vet who has moved on up, Mahfouz stuck to the evening gown and red carpet looks for his première outing.

Mahfouz’s looks somewhat recalled fellow Lebanese design Elie Saab’s style, with solid evening gowns arranged to walk in color sections. But unlike Saab, Mahfouz brought a level of exaggeration to the femininity of his looks, with fabric worked into floral shapes and a few stand out lace overlays. All in all, it was an impressive collection that suggests we’ll be seeing him invited to Paris again, and soon.

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The full collection is below.

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