(Ed note: L’Wren Scott was found dead this morning in her apartment, of an apparent suicide. We’re reupping our last review of her work, London Spring 2014, as a tribute. This post originally ran in September of 2013.)
L’Wren Scott has spent her career in show business, first as a model, and now as a high end fashion designer and celebrity stylist. (Dating Mick Jagger for over a decade doesn’t hurt either.) So though her stated inspiration was Japanese culture and the kimono and the obi, the result felt like the Hollywood version.
It started with the opening outfit, of shining white silk and embroidered wisteria. This is exactly the sort of outfit one might see a “Japanese” starlet wear in 1960s Hollywood, nevermind that she was actually Chinese, or even Korean.
I suppose everyone who is into UK History is a little obsessed with Anne Boleyn. Simone Rocha decided to play into the ideal of the famous second wife of Henry VIII for her Fall 2014 collection. The results may not have been worth inventing a new religion for, but that weren’t anything to behead someone over either.
They were just trying a little too hard. This was supposed to be a jacket to die for, I assume? This is not to die for. It does, on the other hand, look rather uncomfortable.
Karl Lagerfeld isn’t going to live forever, right? He only is the head designer for about half a hundred brands, all of which put out ridiculous amounts of clothes every season. One of these days he’s going to either retire, or keel over. Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff of Meadham Kirchhoff seem to be betting this will be sooner rather than later, and they would like to audition for Chanel when that position comes open, thank you very much.
They’ll have their own spin on it, of course, with funky boots and candy colored palettes. But this is clearly a Chanel inspired look.
What the heck happened over at Giles? Did he take the advice “If it’s Baroque, fix it?” I came to this line expecting over the top dramatic gowns. Instead there was…sporty looking birds.
Color blocked motorcycle pants? Oversized men shoes? Only the birds made sense.
David Koma has been rising in profile lately. His work showed up on more than one red carpet these past couple of months, as the high profile ladies are drawn to his mix of body con stylings and superior craftsmanship. So if the formula works, it’s best to stick with it.
That’s why it was a bit of a shock to see the large purple overcoat come walking down the runway. The clothes under it were so plain, and so not worked, it was a total surprise.
Peter Pilotto is another designer who broke away from his digitalized print work and aimed for something new and different–and knit.
Mesh and fur struck me as very anti-Pilotto. he’s been near bodycon in his work lately. But the intricate embroidery work felt like the hand created version of his digitalized work.
Erdem accidentally bored his audience last spring by trying to clean slate approach. He would not make the same mistake this time. Baroque fabric and intricate lace detailing adorned nearly everything that walked in this collection.
But it wasn’t a highly polished collection though. Sleeves weren’t fully attached. Skirts pulled away from bodices. Moralioglu himself name checks the Romanovs on the run from the revolution, and you could see that in the expensive clothes coming apart.
Mary Katrantzou is finding her way out of digital prints by going with a different kind of print–the kind we see every day in signs and symbols all around our natural world. This being London, those signs and symbols also include school and football (soccer) uniforms and household heralds that might not be so familiar to an American audience.
And then she piled them all up and stacked them on top of each other and turned her ladies into walking totem poles.
I’m a sucker for Art Nouveau and anyone who uses it as a reference point in their designs. Temperley London may having claimed they were being “funky” in the show notes by using it, but that was just proof their idea of funky and the rest of the worlds are very different animals indeed.
This is the very furthest thing from funky, except maybe to The Dowager Countess of Grantham. After all, you can see her knees!
It wasn’t technically part of the collection, but the “pre-opening” look at the Fyodor Golan show set the tone.
Yes, that is a skirt made out of 80 layered Nokia Lumia 1520 Smartphones. I’m just sorry that we only have stills from it, because in some of the other shots the phones have changed color, suggesting they were playing a video. Though way too expensive and heavy at this stage, this is proof there is a future where video clothing exists as a real thing. It also was part and parcel with the designers’ inspiration–where technology meets traditional clothing.