Tag Archives: Milan

Milan Fashion Week Fall 2015 RTW: Emporio Armani

I am not a big fan of Armani. The style is too simple, too masculine for my tastes, and too afraid of color. Though the man is a legend in his own time, it’s hard for me to get excited about his presentations. So I was pleasantly surprised by his Emporio Armani release in Milan this past week. Thought there were still way too many outfits, and the show seemed to drag on in spots, there were some real pieces to get excited about–especially in purple-blue and red.

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Bright colors and ruffled lines are not generally considered hallmarks of the Armani brand, so I wasn’t the only one taken aback. (These are not “House Codes” as the parlance goes.) Fans of his usual style were not as into this line as they were the more staid Giorgio Armani line that walked a day or so later. And thought I saw more than one fashionista review the bows and accessories as clunky and over indulgent, I appreciated the attempt at adding a feminine touch as well as visual interest, even if at times the pieces seemed incongruous with the designs at hand.

The full collection is below.

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Milan Fashion Week Fall 2015 RTW: Marco de Vincenzo

Sometime during the 2014 seasons, Marco de Vincenzo discovered the rainbow. Up until then, his collections were a touch of the humdrum. You didn’t go to his show, in the words of one reviewer, “expecting the dress of the week.” Thought everyone agreed he had promise, said promise had not arrived yet.

It helped a bit that the fashion world caught up to de Vincenzo when it came to materials. Lurex, which only just caught on in Europe, had been a running motif in his collections for quite some time. But it was the joyous riot of color that he’s been experimenting with these last couple of seasons that really made the difference.

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One thing that had remained constant–de Vincenzo’s love of embellishments. But those didn’t stand out the way they used to went compared to the knit test pattern like pieces that walked. It might not have been a deliberate nod to the 70s vibe that’s been so hot on the runway this season, but it’s the part everyone walked away remembering.

The full collection is below.

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Milan Fashion Week Fall 2015 RTW: Dsquared²

I suppose moving their show to Milan Fashion Week, as Dsquared² did back a couple of seasons ago, means that one can get away with things that might not have flown in the USA. Though I suppose if we’re being honest, the Fashion World is not exactly the most up to date in the cultural sensitivity department. Designs appropriate all the time, and very few bat an eye, even if perhaps the stereotypes being played on are neither accurate, nor flattering.

Dan and Dean Caten have never been ones to play to the conservative side of things. Their collections are regularly loud and riding the line between rock and roll and tacky. Since moving to Milan, their collections have gained a more sophisticated edge, but not one that completely obscures their earlier over the top designs. But this season’s Native American appropriation, in an attempt to create the idea of “fashion tribes” could have used some toning down.

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Blessedly, the Catens eschewed some of the more tacky aspects of Native American culture, like head dresses, in favor of their conceptual idea of a hipster tribe vs a military group vs nouveau riche. But was the “savages” (as the liner notes actually read!) really necessary? In Italy, such stereotypes are totally acceptable, as the entire idea of Cowboys and Indians is a fantasy story from a foreign land. Perhaps the Catens should keep this season’s line over there.

The full collection is below.

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Milan Fashion Week Fall 2015 RTW: Giamba

Giambattista Valli’s eponymous line has been getting most of the attention lately, with Amal Clooney, sporting the enviable pieces, while Lena Dunham and Rihanna show up to red carpets in the less advisable ones. But for Milan’s Fall 2015 showing, he trotted out his demi-line, Giamba.

Like many demi lines, like Roberto Cavalli’s “Just Cavalli,” Giamba is supposed to be the younger skewing designs, for a more quirky and hip set. These aren’t pieces meant for the more mature Human Rights Lawyer. But they’re not funky couture that people will compare to bath items.

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Instead the designs aimed for the next generation of the flower child. Some of the florals were total stand outs, especially towards the end, where the petals were allows to function as fluttery appliques. It was also the third line we reviewed this season to lean on statement stockings, which officially makes them a trend. Though there were misses along with the hits–the floral pants jumpsuit for instance was an eyesore, and there were just a few too many leather harness accessories running about–in general this was a collection where Valli made a very good argument why his clothing should and could be sold in stores.

The full collection is below.

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Milan Fashion Week Fall 2015 RTW: Emilio Pucci

The big news out of the Emilio Pucci show for Fall 2015 wasn’t the clothes–we’ll get to those in a minute. Instead it was that head designer Peter Dundas would be leaving the line after this show. (No one would confirm it, but it was all anyone was talking about.) Dundas tenure with the brand hasn’t been the smoothest of sailings. Even though his vision helped bring a youthful and sexy dimension to the line that had become a touch moribund, there were always detractors that didn’t like change.

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Dundas, on the other hand, seemed to be looking to the fates for his next direction. His designs were filled with the zodiac, as well as mysticalrock and roll heroes Stevie Nicks and Jimmy Page. What followed was the like the last dash of the hedonistic 70s era, ready to float whichever way the wind takes them

The full collection is below.

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Milan Fashion Week Fall 2015 RTW: Dolce and Gabbana

Dolce and Gabbana are in a “Family phase” right now. Their Men’s Fashion show for Fall was all family oriented. I suppose it was inevitable that the women’s show would therefore aim to celebrate moms, or, in Italy “Mamma.”

Perhaps this is the fact that i am not into being a mom, I only have cats, and this is not my bag, but I found the whole thing tacky. And this is Dolce and Gabbana we’re talking about–the men who are black lace and roses, and gold gilt tackalicious central. All that was there, with baby pink and baby blue too. One thing to note–Angelina seems to have started a trend, with having her kid’s drawings memorialized on her veil. the entire closing sequence of outfits were white dresses decorated by crayola and kindergartener aged hands.

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And though I am all for different types of bodies on the runway, and the pregnant model was a nice idea, it was the ones that followed carrying babies that just took this show over the top for me. I understand babies-as-props is a thing right now. Kim  Kardashian was wholly into it at the New York runway scene two weeks ago. But babies-as-props bothers me a lot. Stick to toddlers if you must put the underaged on the stage.

Also over the top? Ninety outfits. We paired it down and took out most of the all black outfits, to bring you the highlights below.

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Milan Fashion Week Fall 2015 RTW: Just Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli divides his collection by age. His eponymous line is for the mom. (Which is why it can sometimes feel a little badly Jane Fonda.) The Just Cavalli line is for the daughter. The aim therefore here is always for the youth.

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But the hallmark of youth is lack of thought, which is the other half of this Cavalli collection. There was something about “women’s lib” and Yoko Ono was playing in the background, but it wasn’t really a statement as much as a vaguely poked at pose. But Just Cavalli has always been like that. His focus on youth winds up being a focus on “young, rich and fun loving.” But perhaps sometimes that all you need with clothes. That and a whole bunch of feathers and a couple of dragonesque patterns.

The full collection is below.

Continue reading Milan Fashion Week Fall 2015 RTW: Just Cavalli