Unlike the Emporio show, which tried a little too hard to be “serious and sophisticated” Giorgio Armani decided to be all flannel. All flannel, all the time.
It might feel like the same theme (the masculine and the feminine) and it is, in some ways. After all, it’s the same hand. But the Giorgio line, being the higher end version, aimed to experiment more.
Emporio Armani, the slightly less upscale of the two Armani lines that show in Milan, was the usual mix of masculine and feminine tropes mixed together. Some of the Armani shows can be a little on the off the wall side, but not this season. This season aimed for “sophistication.”
There were the oversized bowlers though, that suggested that Pharrell and his Smokey the Bear hat were just following trends.
Once Upon A Time has been a demi-theme during Fall 2014. Dolce&Gabbana dove into that world with abandon this season. It was something of a welcome relief from all their religious inspired work.
It almost looks arts and crafts with the oversized leaves and cartoon animals, but there was also a charm to the patterns. But about those gauntlets and hood….
When the first look walked out of the Moschino show, I blinked “Good god that’s ugly. She looks like a McDonald’s Executive who’s trying to hard.”
Little did I know that was exactly the point. Moschino, in his day, was a “take the junk of culture and throw it in your face” kind of designer. Jeremy Scott was trying to give us a show in the same vein.
Roberto Cavalli has gone to Panem’s Capitol, and he’s never coming back. That was what I got from the over the top homage to the 1920s by way of the future, on a set that would have made any pyromaniac happy.
Over the Top doesn’t begin to cover it when you’re in an animal print bodysuit curled up in fur. The only thing missing here is outlandish Effie Trinket style makeup and a wig.
Versace Does Daywear. That should have been the headline for this collection. Donatella decided she didn’t need to do lots of evening gowns. Been There, Done That, as the saying goes. Instead she focused on her own brand of what the Versace girl wears during the day.
Apparently she wears bias cut dresses with aerated seams. Oh, and hardware to accent.
Etro was all about the silk and the textured fabrics for Fall 2014. Like so many Italian designers, there was an obsession with the Old West look of blanket clothing and slightly Native American style design. The blanket clothing seems to be a trend for fall, and Etro was on it.
The opening coat covered it well–the coat itself had the wool blanket look to the fabric, while the panels showed a deft hand with the silk.
Over at the Prada show, Miuccia Prada was equating this season’s presentation to a theatrical performance. This was “Act Two.” (Act One was the January Men’s Show.) I love the theater, and the idea of a theatrical performance in a Fashion presentation appeals to me. I love Thom Browne’s runway shows. I love couture week. High drama on the runway!
You can imagine my let down when this is what came out instead. Apparently Prada and I have very different ideas of what constitutes “theatrical.” Or even “interesting.”
Roberto Cavalli likes to take inspiration from his travels for his less expensive line, Just Cavalli. This season he apparently took a staycation, and drew inspiration from his home town of Florence. Not to shabby a staycation.
Not that the inspiration was easy to get from the clothes. One thing Cavalli does right is making sure whatever drove his inspiration is put through the looking glass enough time that it never feels obvious.
Luisa Beccaria‘s presentation was set at the Bagatti Valsecchi Museum in Milan. Considering the amount of Renaissance art, furniture, and tapestries that is housed there, this seemed appropriate. The Fall 2014 line was updated Renaissance clothing for the modern world.
Much of what women wore in the Renaissance as daywear was plain, which explains why the daywear portion of the collection was delicately styled and tailored, but was ultimately the sort of thing one forgets one has in the closet.