Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino recently picked up the award for International Artist of the Year, so it;s not that big of a surprise that for Resort this season they stuck to what worked. If you feel like you’ve seen these sorts of looks from them before, it’s because you have–the covered up silhouette that is rendered in see through lace and festooned with complex beading has become the House’s calling card, along with the rainbow of colors often contained within one look.
For this collection, the inspiration came from the Vreeland quote “The eye has to travel.” Travel with gusto, as the 80+ outfits in the collection were all a riot of visual stimulation, with hippie style florals, butterflies and dragons, all in the stylized format that Valentino is recognized for. But eighty looks are too many, especially for resort, where the norm is usually closer to the 30 range. (Unless you’re Karl Lagerfeld, but he’s just doing it to show off that he can at this point.) After a while some of the looks began to feel repetitive.
We’ve gathered the 45 or so highlights for you below.
Continue reading Resort 2016: Valentino
Red Valentino is returning to form after a few seasons off. After a rather poorly received grunge collection for Fall 2015, it was time to get back to basics and go back the mod and the lace and the cheerful vibe that has always defined the brand at it’s best.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection for the holiday/resort season were mini skirts and mini dresses galore, mixed with black and white laces, pop art images (the rainbows were a highlight) and sweet little neckties.
At points, the fifty piece collection seemed to have maybe needed a bit of editing down. This was true especially in the beginning, when all the black and white combinations began to run together, and the ruffles seemed to be endless waves of lace. But this is a minor quibble when the real story is the relief of a Red Valentino collection worth spending money on again.
The full line is below.
Continue reading Resort 2016: Red Valentino
If you don’t have the most interesting or the most interesting line to show at Fashion Week, you can always pull stunts, and be sure the crowd leaves Fashion Week, talking about you. That was the lesson today at Valentino. the clothes weren’t always innovative, and more than a few were retreads of stuff we’ve seen before–almost a highlight reel of the last few seasons.
Then that happened.
Zoolander 2 happens to be filming right now by the way. Did you even know there was a sequel to the 15-year-old cult classic satire of the Fashion Industry? (Well, if they can make a damn Dumb and Dumber sequel, they might as well make a Zoolander one.) The synergy was strong in this appearance. Stiller and Wilson got a major promotion for their currently under the radar production of a sequel no one asked for, and Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli found a reason to get people to talk about their show.
Not that the clothes were bad. It’s just that there wasn’t anything all that new or different. With Valentino, that means most of the collection would have been a knock out coming from anyone else. There were 84 outfits, if you include the Derek Zoolander and Hansel ones. We have the highlights below.
Continue reading Paris Fashion Week Fall 2015 RTW: Valentino
Ah romance! Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli brought it in spades to the runway with a 46 piece collection that was determined to win over the hopeless romantics of the red carpet. Along with some romanticized folklore-based Italian Renaissance peasant dresses, there were red gowns galore, florals and sheers and few flights of fancy–anyone want to go fly a kite?
Just remember, even when your life may be in chaos, you can always wear a gown emblazoned with “Amor Vincit Omnia” (Love Conquers All.) The full gallery is below.
Continue reading Paris Spring 2015 Couture: Valentino
Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli did something for PreFall I’m amazed designers don’t do more often–they brought in collaborators. Considering these guys design over a dozen lines a year (sometimes more) it’s amazing to me the big houses don’t find the need to bring in fresh eyes and fresh ideas.
Celia Birtwell, the woman who created the late Ossie Clark’s floral prints in the 1970s came to play, as well as Italian Pop Artist Giosetta Fioroni. The two of them have a sensibility that fits within the Valentino milieu–in fact I haven’t seen a Valentino line look quite so “Valentino.” They also brought numbers–97 looks in all. We’re only doing the highlights in the gallery below.
Continue reading PreFall 2015: Valentino
While Dior was happening in Tokyo, back here in the states Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were presenting a special one off collection of the Valentino Sala Bianca Haute Couture line at what was formerly the Whitney museum. To be clear, this is not their Spring 2015 Couture collection for Valentino–that will go on as usual in Paris next month. This special event runway show was to celebrate Valentino’s Sala Bianca collections from the 60s, which were famous for being all white.
Much like the de la Renta show yesterday, we will present this collection in full instead of reviewing the highlights.
Continue reading Couture: Valentino Sala Bianca 945 Celebration
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino will fit right in at Milan Fashion Week, if they ever decide to leave Paris. Like Dolce and Gabbana, they are proud of their Italian cultural heritage, and steep their collections in it.
Maybe the reason I find them more successful that D&G is because they manage to make designs pulled from their Italian heritage more accessible and more on trend.
Continue reading Paris Fashion Week Spring 2015 RTW: Valentino