PreFall 2016: Marchesa

The irony of Georgina Chapman declaring that for PreFall her line, Marchesa, would be getting back to its roots was thick. After all, how can one get back to roots they’ve never gotten away from? The Marchesa line is named for Marchesa Luisa Casati, who was a pre and post Great War style icon. Known for her over top and exquisitely feminine style, the Marchesa line, has embodied that look without fail since it first launched. There is not getting back to anything, if it’s all you ever do.

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Not that anyone is complaining that this is all Chapman and her partner Keren Craig ever do. There is a huge market for the pretty pretty princess gown, and a brand that is known for over the top femininity at all times.  Whether the brand is setting themselves in the Belle Epoche, when Casati first rose to fame, the 1920-30s post war Art Deco time period, or transporting that to a more now look, they are championing their namesake at every turn, and their patrons are thrilled each and every time. It’s why when Chapman uses Project Runway All Stars as a platform to try to promote her brand it feels so crass and commercial. She doesn’t need to do that. Marchesa would be above such things, as is her PreFall line above being told it is a “return to its roots.” Every dress here should give her all the side eye for saying such things and whisper among themselves that they have no idea what she’s babbling about before returning to pose for the adoring crowds.

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