Paris Spring 2016 Couture: Elie Saab

Watching a designer develop and grow over the years is one of the major treats of reviewing fashion. A few short years ago, when Elie Saab broke onto the scene, the Lebanese designer was all evening gown, from end to end, all solid color sparkle and chiffon and sequins.  But the last few seasons have seen him slowly learning to use prints, and experimenting with new, more youthful silhouettes.

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And for the first time, this season, Saab went for a slightly non-western theme for his collection. “Enter India” his show announced, and though his “muse” was the turn of the century English aristocrat with an India backdrop, the inclusion of the more exotic design brought a fresh look to his usual offerings.

True, many of the dresses are exactly as we expect from him–solid colors in the popular shades of the hour, bedecked with crystals, sequins, chiffon and lace. But even the slight variation on the usual with the Indian theme sent every look through a fresh lens, and the collection not feel like the “business as usual” of a Saab couture show. I hope to see several of these adorning the red carpet soon.

The full collection is below.

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