Resort 2017: Dior

Oh dear, Dior.

I mentioned yesterday in the Vuitton review that taking guests to exotic locales as part of “resort” season was the big new thing done by all the major houses, as they try to make “Resort” season happen. (Or “Cruise” season happen, as some have been fruitlessly trying to rebrand it.) Smaller design houses have steadily ignored this so far–one can see by the rash of pre-posed photos and small 20 odd look collections that began flooding the fashion blogs yesterday that most are perfectly happy to leave resort just as it is, thank you. The problem is when some of the bigger houses feel pressured to going to rush to make resort a thing when they should stand with everyone else against such silliness.

Unfortunately for Dior, they are in a double bind. Without a Fashion Director to lead them, those who are responsible for the brand–a conglomerate of suits and shareholders–feel the need to enter themselves into this derby, basically because there is no director to tell them what a terrible idea this is. (They even called it a “Cruise” show.) But it only gets worse, as they have nothing to speak of once they get to said “exotic locale” (which was dull, grey and depressing rainy London–not exotic in the slightest, despite billing it as a charity show.)


Instead, those who trekked in the rain to see Dior found themselves having to put a nice face on what was little more than an interim type collection made by Swiss duo Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux who have been brought in to keep the brand afloat since Raf Simons quit over six months ago, and the brand has been unable to secure a replacement. the resulting mess that walked was sort of hodge-podge of Dior-esque ideas without follow through, or worse, Dior-esque ideas with bad follow through. Random leg of mutton sleeves came and went, rouched bodycon dresses failed to be either, and there was one applique I swear was sewn on upside down, because that was the only explanation for it.

Mixed into these 47 looks were a few nice summer garden party dresses, fit for a lovely English tea party. But the bad looked rained out the good one, and London weather rained out the tea party. Perhaps next time, those in charge of Dior can stop pretending things are going just fine, take a breath, and a collection or two off and, find themselves a fashion director–or at least figure out what’s so broken inside the company’s culture that they had one quit so abruptly and have not been able to find a single person willing to head up such a high-profile named brand.

The rest of the collection, such as it is, is below.

dior_cruise_02 dior_cruise_03 dior_cruise_04 dior_cruise_05 dior_cruise_06 dior_cruise_07 dior_cruise_08 dior_cruise_09 dior_cruise_10 dior_cruise_11 dior_cruise_12 dior_cruise_13 dior_cruise_14 dior_cruise_15 dior_cruise_16 dior_cruise_17 dior_cruise_18 dior_cruise_19 dior_cruise_20 dior_cruise_21 dior_cruise_22 dior_cruise_23 dior_cruise_24 dior_cruise_25 dior_cruise_26 dior_cruise_27 dior_cruise_28 dior_cruise_29 dior_cruise_30 dior_cruise_31 dior_cruise_32 dior_cruise_33 dior_cruise_34 dior_cruise_35 dior_cruise_36 dior_cruise_37 dior_cruise_38 dior_cruise_39 dior_cruise_40 dior_cruise_41 dior_cruise_42 dior_cruise_43 dior_cruise_44 dior_cruise_45 dior_cruise_46 dior_cruise_47 dior_cruise_48 dior_cruise_49 dior_cruise_50 dior_cruise_51 dior_cruise_52 dior_cruise_53 dior_cruise_54 dior_cruise_55


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