Resort 2017: Fausto Puglisi

You ever get the sense that someone is making fun of the proceedings? Except, then you look twice and realize now–they’re deadly serious. So deadly serious they’ve accidentally tipped over the line into parody, and don’t realize it?

Fausto Puglisi, everyone.

It wasn’t quite a runway presentation, but it was an on site presentation…in an abandoned train station, with models artfully standing about, like living statues. There are people who insist the beautiful white marble statues of the Roman empire were once garishly painted in bright overdone colors. one could suggest–if one were being rather bitchy–that Puglisi’s collection was a homage to that school of thought. One could have taken this living art installation as making fun of all these big name fashion houses rushing about the globe trying to make “Resort Runway Shows” happen, the same way they’ve tried to make rebranding it “Cruise Season” happen.

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Except….Puglisi isn’t the type to poke fun. He’s the type of Italian fashion designer who takes the concept of Italian fashion *so* seriously that his ponderously dense overly florid designs are the stuff that those who don’t get fashion are thinking of when they refer to something as looking like flowers threw up all over everything. He wasn’t poking fun with his train station presentation. He was serious.

Oh dear.

It might have been salvageable if Puglisi hadn’t then, on top of everything else, gone deconstructionist. But adding in that factor was a bit like the styling of his presentation: when in doubt, add more. One began to feel, as one looks through the outfits, that the designer could have benefited by having every single model discard one element of their outfit before assuming their frozen positions. Even the menswear outfits*, felt over the top–even the ones where the male models in question could have done with a little more clothing.

(*Like Moschino, Puglisi combined his Resort and Menswear presentations. If the fashion houses trying to push Resort into the mainstream have their way, this may in fact be the compromise most smaller fashion houses make to keep up.)

The full line is below.

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