Paris Couture Fall 2016: Francesco Scognamiglio

Every season there’s at least designer who get their first invite to show as a special guest at Couture Week. This year that group contained Italian designer Francesco Scognamiglio. A Neapolitan designer who has spent his career on the Italian fashion circuit, his ready to wear collections–which he’s been producing under his eponymous line since 2000–are very, very Italian. The bigger the flounce, the brighter the floral prints, the sexier the look, is how that always seems to go. (Unless over course, you’re Dolce or Gabbana, and then it’s all about looking like a walking homage to the Vatican.)

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It’s a career high to be asked to show at Couture week, and that leveling up–even if it’s only for the one time–can lead to other opportunities. Note that only days after showing at Couture Week it was announced that Beyoncé would be wearing one of Scognamiglio’s creations at her show in Milan next week.

But as for the show itself, interesting is not the word I would use. There were touches here and there. The veils especially stood out towards the beginning and the end. But other than the use of ostrich feathers and sculptural fabrics–neither of which had much to do with the other, except that one could tell that this is what Scognamiglio considered to be various “over the top” concepts–there wasn’t much to write home about. Not that I’m knocking his collection for only having 19 pieces. Some sneered at that, as if somehow one must put on a show of 90+ pieces, a la Chanel, in order to be considered serious. It was more that it was small time. And this was the big stage. Now was not the time to play it safe. But unfortunately, that’s what Scognamiglio chose to do.

Not that the pieces themselves aren’t pretty. The full collection is below.

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