PreFall 2016: Carolina Herrera

So we’re still only at half speed here for the moment, those we are trying to post at least a few times a day. Please enjoy Carolina Herrera’s PreFall 2016 line, below.

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PreFall 2016: Monique Lhuillier

“Pre-Fall” and “Resort” to Monique Lhuillier equals “day wear.” Whether or not it’s really her forte is up to the consumer, but one has to admire her determination to use the two off-season collections that sit in stores the longest to expand out from being synonymous with “red carpet” and “bridal.”

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Some of her day wear isn’t the most terrible either. It’s definitely for a very specific client, but that’s not a bad thing. After all, what Lhuillier does is feminine frippery and lord does she ever do it well. Even her pant offering and ultra fem. But since one cannot wear red carpet every day, even if that is all one wants to wear, there should be a day wear line that makes one feel like the paps will be showing up to take their picture at any moment.

The full collection is below.

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PreFall 2016: BCBG Max Azria

Well I saw a crowd a-gathered
Must’ve been somebody shot
Reporters scribbled shorthand
And photographed the spot
I moved in a little closer
But I couldn’t see no blood
Just a gold-plated chariot
Arisin’ from the mud
Then I heard a soulful murmur
And it sounded like his voice
It began to sing, it was the King
It was Elvis’ Rolls Royce

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Now the wood-grained bar was open
Like he was about to have a drink
A white-gloved chauffeur at the wheel
I never saw him blink
The bobbies looked indifferent
Clearly they were not amused
It was just another auction piece
And it didn’t matter whose
D-Day was upon me
And I had to make a choice
Next thing I know
I’m at the wheel of Elvis’ Rolls Royce

Well I made a left at Parliament
And hit the pedal hard
And I tipped my hat and I smiled
As I passed by Scotland Yard
Now the voice is talkin’ to me
It says “There’s nothing to fear”
It was coming from the back seat
But there was no one in the mirror
I got a little nervous
I think I lost my poise
As we crossed the great Atlantic
In Elvis’ Rolls Royce

When we got to New York City
The crowds went wild to say the least
As I steered my precious cargo
Through the belly of the beast
Then I took off down the Interstate
And drove throughout the night
Till I reached the state of Tennessee
In the early morning light
There they were, the gates of Graceland

My eyes got kind of moist
Home sweet home to rock’n’roll
And Elvis’ Rolls Royce

The full collection is below.

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PreFall 2016: Hervé Léger by Max Azria

Despite the attempts to pull away from the bandage dress and body con reputation of the Hervé Léger brand this past year, Max and Lubov Azria understand which side their bread is buttered.  After a couple of rounds playing down the signature dress, for PreFall, they went back to what will sell, since this is one of the collections that sits in the store longest.

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But it wasn’t all back to the bandage and harness basics at the Azria show. The pant look, which they’ve been slowly working in showed up a couple of times, though mashed with the bandage hallmarks gave the jumpsuit something of a futuristic armor feel. And the jacket and blouse overlays also made a good impact, suggesting that there is a way to thread the needle between nothing but curves and a little bit more of a forgiving silhouette for the Azrias to play with into 2016 and beyond.

The full collection is below.

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PreFall 2016: Dennis Basso

Dennis Basso continues to work on providing the elegant dresses that go under his signature furs. With this PreFall collection he made perhaps the biggest leap in that quest to date–for the first time this was a collection with more outfits that did not include fur than did.

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So how was his elegant woman dressed? In bird and forest covered prints on ombre silks, floral appliques and here and there a pant. None of it was anything we hadn’t seen before. In places the first thing that came to mind was “Valentino-Lite.” But this is Basso starting to full strike out to the evening wear world that he has so far dabbled in, and a little Valentino never hurt nobody.

Check out all of the dreamy designs below.

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PreFall 2016: Marchesa

The irony of Georgina Chapman declaring that for PreFall her line, Marchesa, would be getting back to its roots was thick. After all, how can one get back to roots they’ve never gotten away from? The Marchesa line is named for Marchesa Luisa Casati, who was a pre and post Great War style icon. Known for her over top and exquisitely feminine style, the Marchesa line, has embodied that look without fail since it first launched. There is not getting back to anything, if it’s all you ever do.

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Not that anyone is complaining that this is all Chapman and her partner Keren Craig ever do. There is a huge market for the pretty pretty princess gown, and a brand that is known for over the top femininity at all times.  Whether the brand is setting themselves in the Belle Epoche, when Casati first rose to fame, the 1920-30s post war Art Deco time period, or transporting that to a more now look, they are championing their namesake at every turn, and their patrons are thrilled each and every time. It’s why when Chapman uses Project Runway All Stars as a platform to try to promote her brand it feels so crass and commercial. She doesn’t need to do that. Marchesa would be above such things, as is her PreFall line above being told it is a “return to its roots.” Every dress here should give her all the side eye for saying such things and whisper among themselves that they have no idea what she’s babbling about before returning to pose for the adoring crowds.

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