Paris Fall 2015 Couture: Busardi

Busardi, Thailand’s oldest surviving fashion house, was once again on hand for Couture week, and he’ll be the collection we’ll close our month of reviews on. This was the brand’s second time in Paris for Couture, and the inspiration came from the Epiphyllum oxypetalum, a night blooming cactus flower.


The result included feathery headdresses that sometimes recalled fowl more than it did floral, and intricately designed dresses that were simple in shape and long on applique curly ques.The highlight of the collection came in the latter half, as designer Busardi Muntarbhorn moved from monochromatic looks to combining jewel tones to head turning effect. Many evening wear designers don’t have the nerve to take such risks, but Bursadi reminded us that if you know how to use color and pattern, it’s a skill one should employ often.

The full collection is below.

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Paris Fall 2015 Couture: Serkan Cura

Serkan Cura and his bird fixation sometimes bring out amazing creations. But sometimes not so much. This was one of his more belabored collections, with too many themes–black and white, checkered, and of course, birds of a feather.

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Along with the feathers, there’s also fur, jewel encrusted accessories, stripes and checks. It’s all a bit dizzying when taken together. Good thing the collection was short.

The full line is below.

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Paris Fall 2015 Couture: Alexandre Vauthier

This ain’t no disco, this is LA, as the Sheryl Crow song says. The same might be said of Alexandre Vauthier’s Fall 2015 collection. An LA leather inspired line with more fringe and skin than you can shake your big hair at.


Of course, the problem with Italians and Parisians doing North American for their inspiration is that they inevitably trend towards the Native American, and having very little sense of the cultural issues that exist around using such inspirations, many collections can come off as appropriating, or worse. In this case though, the rock and roll flavor edge that was part of Vauthier steered him decently clear of that. If anything it felt like he was culturally appropriating the sort of blonde white starlet who lounges around poolside, hoping to be discovered by the next producer who walks by.

The full collection is below.

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Paris Fall 2015 Couture: Alberta Ferretti Limited Edition

It wasn’t quite a “couture” show, per se, in that Ferretti is not considered part of the couture invite crowd, limited edition version of herself or not. For the sticklers in the audience, this “Alberta Ferretti Limited Edition” collection was more in service of the début of her new studio space in Paris than it was really a fashion collection. And if one was going to consider it a fashion collection, then the proper view was that it was a very early presentation of a Spring 2016 line that happened to be nothing but evening wear, right smack in the middle of couture week.


For everyone else, it was a couture show, and in fact, one of the highlights of the week, better than half of the official collections that were shown under the couture banner. Ferretti is a designer who makes gorgeous feminine gowns with a flair for the old school designs. She’s a natural fit for couture. Half the reason people assumed she was part of Couture Week when they attended her show was because her work was up to par.

Instead of asking themselves whether they should files this to “Fall Couture” (as Anna Wintour’s outlets did) or “Spring 2016” (as WWD did), the real question the audience should have been asking is why on earth hasn’t the woman been issues a couture invitation to show in Paris every season?

The full collection is below.

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Paris Fall 2015 Couture: Alexis Mabille

Couture, by definition, is a garment made to order, a one time clothing work of art. And though some couture collections stick to that aesthetic–every gown and outfit that walks is made by hand, and the one you see is all there is–some move away from that model, due to economic demands.


Alexis Mabille might have, as first glance, cut corners for his couture collection, as his work was presented in photographic form, and not on the traditional cat walk. but that’s because he was hewing to the most traditional model of couture there is. Each outfit presented was one of a kind, and made expressly for and inspired by the women who wore them. Most of these names that he got to participate in the project are not runway models, and were not interested in walking the catwalk, hence the photographic nature of the presentation. But from Dita Von Teese and Leslie Caron, all the way to Mounia Orosemane and Olivia Merilhati, every gown was clearly designed to be worn by that woman and that woman alone.

The full collection is below.

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Paris Fall 2015 Couture: Antonio Ortega

Mexican born Antonio Ortega went conceptual and not wearable for his couture collection. “Mummific” saw fabrics that wrapped itself around models, wearing them instead of them wearing the clothes.

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In some places, the fabric was obliging enough to take on the familiar shapes and patterns that we would expect of clothing, like this opening dress. But like the bodysuits underneath that covered the models from head to toe, it wasn’t long before the fabric had its own way with the designs and did whatever it wanted, regardless of what the consumer might be looking for.

The full collection is below.

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Paris Fall 2015 Couture: Georges Chakra

Georges Chakra is one of those designers who feels that the 1950s and the late period “Golden Age of Hollywood” was the most glamorous era there ever was. His couture collections reflect that sensibility.

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Lots of hourglass shaped gowns, most of them with at least modestly low hems, if not straight out tea or floor length. The gloves, which Amal Clooney tried to make a thing, has always been a thing with Chakra. The rest of the collection was sequinned goodness, applique beauty and sumptuous silks. The only nod towards the current era could be found int he colorful hair stripes dyed into the model’s classy up ‘dos.

The full collection

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