It’s been four years since John Galliano publicly melted down in a Paris café, screaming about how much he loved Hitler, and was shortly thereafter dismissed from Dior and his own eponymous line. Since then, a few of his more sympathetic designer friends have done collaborations with him, but he’s mainly been kept out of the limelight with the hope that if he waited long enough for a comeback, it would all blow over.
That comeback came yesterday in London, as Galliano introduced his first new line, under the Maison Margiela banner, a little ahead of the traditional couture schedule in Paris. (The Martin seems to have been dropped, though most people still refer to it as Maison Martin Margiela.)
The line is famous for being bizarre, relying on artisanal fashion, and known more for its esoteric use of fabrics than actual wearable clothing. Galliano took to that concept with gusto. Toy cars, canvas, found scraps and lacquered bits of melting faces. It was both very him and very of the Maison line. The fashion world screamed with relief that he was back. Let’s hope he doesn’t disappoint them again.
The rest of the gallery is below.
I haven’t been into the designs of KTZ that much up until now. The ready to wear label that sprung originally from a late 90s music store has, up until now, mostly produced the sort of futuristic rubbish that can give “Fashion Forward” a bad name.
But the turn this past season to neoclassical Greek art and designs and taking the Victorian Cameo to bizarre and surreal places made this season irresistible.
Keeping with the theme of rebooting for the middle of the decade that was prevalent at London Fashion Week, Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos took a season off from their computerized print designs and went for something a little higher tech.
Plastic tiles with floral and leaf designs were adored with rainbow resin appliques made up the bulk of this collection. It was pretty, silly and little superficial.
Is it the something about a year ending in five? So many of our designers have thrown off the thinks that have defined them for the first half of the decade in favor of something new. The latest at london Fashion Week to do so was Threeasfour. Their radical new direction?
Clothes you can actually wear.